Gutted! (previously, Spaghetti del Mare)
October 1, 2010 in Uncategorized
I feel like quitting the food industry right now. My foundations have been shaken to the core. Last night I casually SMS “bokkom” to the SASSI FishMS service to proudly show someone that our beloved West Coast dried mullet is as green an option as you can get. I’ve used this party trick plenty of times before. But what an awful surprise when Shock! Horror! the SMS returned displayed: Bokkom: Dried, salted mullet. STATUS: RED.
I was, and I still am mortified. I don’t even order status orange fish in a restaurant, let alone cook with it. And here, all of a sudden, one of my favourite and most used local ingredients is RED!
I feel cheated. And the whole thing really scares me. I thought I had the locally sourced, sustainable produce thing completely down. And it turns out I know f*kol.
How can a small operation such as the Bokkom Lane fishing conglomeration be more of a threat to our oceanic resources than multinational, commercial big guns like Sea Harvest and I&J (who, by the way, all of a sudden all carry a Certified Sustainable Seafood stamp from the Marine Stewardship Council)?
The issue apparently steps in with the fishing methods of gillnets and treknets which is used to harvest harders, and the fact that Bokkom Lane is situated on the sensitive Berg River estuary. It is illegal to fish in an estuary, and if indeed the Bokkom Lane fisheries are guilty of this practice, I will be sure to boycott them.
Secondly, if indeed harders are a species under threat, I am determined to stop using industry bokkoms, and will much rather make my own bokkoms from sustainable fish, according to Leipoldt’s recipe.
However, I find it a little hard to believe that trekking harders are less acceptable than deep sea fishing where considerable damage is done to the ocean floor with their huge vacuum systems. Not to mention the bycatch that get discarded in the process, or their negative impact on marine bird life.
But I kind of smell something fishy somewhere. And I am determined to investigate. Or to stop eating fish altogether. Kind of makes we wonder what other ingredients I should stop eating, or cooking with.
Until I have figured it out, I very reluctantly share the recipe for my version of Spaghetti del Mare as served at Oep ve Koep, with bokkoms (possibly for the last time).
Olive oil
Olives
Capers
Bokkom fillets, torn into strips
Rosemary
White wine steamed mussels in the shell
Sustainable fresh fish, cut into large cubes
2 cans of whole peeled tomatoes
Tomato puree
Garlic, crushed
Glass of dry white wine
Smoked paprika
Sugar, salt and pepper to taste
Al dente spaghetti or linguine, and freshly grated parmesan to serve
Heat some olive oil in a large saucepan. Briefly fry the bokkoms, olives, capers and sprigs of rosemary until fragrant. Add the white wine in one go and allow to bubble up, then turn down the heat slightly. Now add the tomato paste and canned tomatoes, crushed garlic, paprika and some seasoning. Cook over medium heat until the sauce starts to thicken slightly. Now add the chunks of fish, and allow to boil in the sauce until just cooked. Lastly add the steamed mussels, and cook until heated through. Taste for seasoning, spoon over freshly cooked pasta and serve.
*Before you decide to include a version of Spaghetti del Mare on your menu, I suggest logging on to www.wwfsassi.co.za to download the list of status green, sustainable fish. And to religiously use the FishMS service when you dine.
To lighten the mood somewhat, you can also watch Isabella Rosselini’s informative and incredibly cool Green Porno short films at http://www.sundancechannel.com/greenporno/
Her beautiful book and DVD of the same title is one of the main reasons that I have stopped cooking or eating shrimp and prawns whatsoever.
Yours in doubt, despair and suspicion,
Sardines on Toast.
Kitchengirl said on October 1, 2010
Sherbet Kobus – there is definitely something awry here… your beloved bokkoms! It’s quite seriously ridiculous!
BITSOFCAREY said on October 1, 2010
well said Kobus, the whole fish industry has gone bonkers!I’m right there with you wrt to the sassi sms service. Have a good weekend!
Zabwan said on October 1, 2010
Thanks for that in-put. Keep us posted.
Gaby866 said on October 1, 2010
Kobus I totally agree with you re the discarded bycatch… Every time we go out fishing down past the Canyon and sit behind the big trawlers to catch tuna.. there the bycatch floats that they discard.. They are even discarding Huge kingklip!! which all the little fishing boats obviously pick up if they can… Yesss there is definitely something fishy going on.. I don’t believe somehow that it is the local fishermen doing the damage but all these foreign trawlers ! The yellowfin has become so rare here because the trawlers up in Senegal rape the sea when these fish are on their way down South !
Hence the local small time fishermen bare the brunt .. however.. despite it all do have a lekka weekend in the sun..:)
pinkpolkadot said on October 1, 2010
Something is really fishy!!
I love the dish and the pics!
slicesofkiwi said on October 1, 2010
Lovely dish and pics
ninatimm said on October 1, 2010
I just drove through the Bokkom laan yesterday, something is really off here, Kobus!
BTW you have now met my entire flippen family and I still haven’t been to Oep vi Eet, that is a bleddie shame!!!
Naghings said on October 1, 2010
Ek love dié blog.
milkandhoney said on October 1, 2010
oh my jitte, heartbreak aside, eks honger!!! Eks regtig jammermvir jou – dis n ontnugtering. Hoop jy kan hulle verkeerd bewys. Go forth and conquer
milkandhoney said on October 1, 2010
En might I add – die samelewing wat so GONS oor prawns maak my naar. Die goed is vuil, onder andere. As iemand hoor ek’t n restaurant dan vra hulle of ons prawns maak. PLEASE PEOPLE.
Collywolly said on October 1, 2010
That is a disgrace Nins….best you get it sorted ASAP!!
Collywolly said on October 1, 2010
Dis nou skokkend!! I use the sassi sms service all the time. But I find it hard to believe the story of the bokkoms. Keep us posted as to what you find out! Beautiful dish there…..
davidbb said on October 2, 2010
an outstanding article kobus, and you should publish the results of your researches somewhere more mainstream- an afrikaans sunday paper and the Mail and Guardian , perhaps? There is almost no coverage on sustainable eating in this country- its one area where we are still about 15 years behind.
And I cant believe that the industrial giant trawler factories can have a certified sustainable foodstamp, in a meaningful way.
Have you read Jonathan Safron Foers new book- ‘Eating Animals’ ? he describes the global fishing industry to have declared war on fish- the same technologies are used.
Sous-Chef said on October 2, 2010
That looks stunning and thanks for all the info.
TheCreativePot said on October 4, 2010
Wow- bokkoms? Really? And just when I’d cottoned on to their delights… *sigh*
sardinesontoast said on October 5, 2010
I agree. I’m really gutted and confused.
sardinesontoast said on October 5, 2010
It’s scary isn’t it?
sardinesontoast said on October 5, 2010
Will do.
sardinesontoast said on October 5, 2010
Shocking about the bycatch…!
sardinesontoast said on October 5, 2010
Thanks. My memory of this dish is forever tainted though…
sardinesontoast said on October 5, 2010
sardinesontoast said on October 5, 2010
I have met your entire flippen family yes! When are you coming?
sardinesontoast said on October 5, 2010
*Like*
sardinesontoast said on October 5, 2010
Dit is inderdaad ‘n moerse ontnugtering. Maar ek hoop om agter die kap van die byl te kom.
sardinesontoast said on October 5, 2010
I’m with you on the prawn thing!
sardinesontoast said on October 5, 2010
It is hard to believe, and will be incredibly sad if true.
sardinesontoast said on October 5, 2010
Have read Eating Animals. I agree – it is like war. Silly really that anything “caught” in such an aggressive manner can be labelled “green” or certified “sustainable”. Will keep you posted about my findings… or alternatively a recipe for sustainable bokkom.
sardinesontoast said on October 5, 2010
Merci.
sardinesontoast said on October 5, 2010
Ja, kan jy dit nou glo? Die laaste ding wat ek verwag het.
leaineskitchen said on October 5, 2010
The whole fish business is scary! Sorry to hear about your bokkoms, but do keep us posted, am interested to know your findings! Thanks for this and such a lovely recipe!
janicetripepi said on October 6, 2010
Awesome K – i have sent you a message! Please have alook !!! xxx jan
JessieR said on October 6, 2010
Oh that looks delish. So wish I could cook like that.
MickyM said on October 11, 2010
oh wow – I don’t believe bokkoms are red status….. I can understand your shock and surprise…….. And that pasta looks so delish.